Rescue not working correctly

Rescue on my Glogo is not function correctly probably due to vibration. If I activate rescue near the beginning of the flight it works as expected. However after a little 3D stuff the rescue when activated add a lot of forward cyclic. The little ball in the rescue screen moves to the top of the screen as the flight progresses. My logs show numerous raised vibration messages and sometimes a couple of high vibration warnings, but, no extreme vibe warnings.

The attached screenshots were taken while hovering.

I also attached a flight log.

I feel sure this is due to vibration but I am not sure what to do or where to start.

Hello,

The rescue function utilizes accelerometers and sensors which can only function as long as the vibrations stay within the limits of the sensors capabilities. Vbar uses 2 different range of sensors, and has the highest rated sensors on the market so Mikado has given every possibility for the rescue to work even through the severe vibrations a rc helicopter sees in flight!

That being said it is possible for the vibration levels to exceed the limitations of the sensors, which results in the issue you described. Normally this does not happen on Mikado electric helis, but some other manufacture electric helis can still have excessive vibration due to drive train resonances, or Vbar mounting position being not optimal. But your question is about the Glogo so let's focus there.

Nitro helis of course have tons and tons of inherent vibrations due to the nitro engine, and the fan hub / heavy clutch spinning at 16000+ rpm. If you want any chance of rescue working you need to have a very well balanced and setup nitro model. So I ask the following questions.

- Did you balance the fan / fan hub
- Did you Dial indicate your fan hub / clutch mounting
- Where is your vbar mounted? Front or back position

Also just to know the age of the model, is this one of the 1st batch kits, or a new model from the 2nd batch?

Kyle

I did not balance the fan or fan hub, nor did I dial indicate the clutch or fan hub. The Vbar is mounted at the rear position and this is a new kit so I assume it is from the 2nd batch. Also the motor is a new OS 1.05 which is running great and the heli is flying great as well.

Glenn

Hi Glenn,

please check this out.

On a nitro, you have 'a lot of junk' rotating at high rpm, even if the engine itself was running vibration-free, which it isn't either, big-bore once-cylinder and all ...

Kind regards

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

I would check your balance and dial indicate everything if you want to use rescue.

I will dial test indicate and balance rotating parts. What tolerance should I be shooting for when indicating the fan hub, clutch, etc?

Thanks for your help.

Glenn

The minimum acceptable is around .003". But if you can get it below .0015" or .001" thats best!

Thanks for the help.

I balanced the clutch stack and got the run out to .0015" with no change in the way rescue works.

The heli is still flying well with no spikes in the vibe analysis screen or anything other than the dot on the rescue screen moving to the top as the flight progresses.

Any other ideas?

Hi,

well, there seem to be models (a number of components bolted together) where Rescue won't work reliably, ever.
I hate to say it, but it's the way it is.

Now, we have not yet run out of options: changing the mounting position of the sensors (NEO or other system, this is why I'm deliberately putting it this way) can help, front or back. Back is usually the better position, put distance between the working parts and the sensors.

Using 'the other' case might help, some customers have reported going from plastic to aluminum brought an improvement, and some vice-versa, so there's no general recommendation but 'do something differently than before'.
Also using two layers of tape might help, or different tape (like Kyosho Zeal, the green jello type).
But some pilots find that the model is less precise with the softer tape.
Or using two layers of tape with a metal plate between (brass or steel, something adding weight, not aluminum, too light for the size).

Then, the wiring can help or interfere, if it's too taut, or touching frames somewhere.

A big-bore one-cylinder is also not running as smoothly as a 12 cylinder, and I guess no matter what type or brand, there are better or lesser ones.

I also heard from team pilots that the muffler could be a problem, in particular the way you mount it.
I'm more or less all electric, but as far as I understood, if there's some dampening between engine and muffler, it's better, otherwise it's resonance probably feeds back.

In the end, it's like in the beginning, where you only had tail gyros, and where the tail drifted if vibration was adverse.

Now that the gyros are part of control and stabilization, on all axis, all axis _could_ drift (with today's sensors, fortunately hardly ever an issue), or the 'black box' continuously calculating the horizon may run off track, with the accelerometers being much more sensitive, and having to be, they have to detect offsets from +/– 1 G with decimals after all, and we have to filter that out of whatever the model 'throws' at the sensors, which usually is a multiple thereof, even on electrics.

Kind regards

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.