One way bearing main gear and 3rd bearing block

Hi Mikado and Kyle,

I am building the Glogo and I faced problem,

It is so hard to slide the Main gear+one way bearing into the 3rd bearing block as instructions, I have to push the main gear, with strong force, using ETO tool, to force the one way bearing to the 3rd block, so there is next problem, installing the main gear to the frame is impossible, I have to remove all screws around the tail to expand the frame to push the maingear+oneway+3rd bearing block(now is one piece).

Is this diameter of bearing is too small or the tolerance of the one way bearing? With this error, to remove/replace one way + main gear, I have to remove a lot of screw then remove the 3rd bearing block(include one way+ bearing attach). The one way bearing is sharing part with Logo 690SX (#4876), I do not have problem with one way bearing of Logo 690SX, it slides easily to counter bearing support plate.

Another thing need to improve,
The canopy mount bolt is too short, in the manual, it said insert 3x washer, why not produce the canopy mount increase 2.5mm so no need washer? It look very ugly when stack 3 washer like this.(picture 3,4)

Also why not move the canopy mount bolt upper position, where there is lock nut, which just design to hold the anti rotation servo swash?(picture #5), I also shorted the thread rod, it is too long, not necessary and ugly.

Thank you

Hello Nhan,

I will answer your questions one by one.

3rd bearing block - Is this with a brand new kit or a kit you have been flying? If it is a new kit then I am not sure what the issue can be other than some wrong tolerance. The bearing should slide onto the hub. Can you check with the parts out of the frame to see if the bearing will slide on and off the one way hub. If not then there is something wrong.
If these parts are used then I can say that after some use the parts can wear and then after a while stop fitting together so nicely. Especially if the 3rd bearing block was not aligned nicely in the first place, this can accelerate the wear. In this case you should buy a new one way hub, and 3rd bearing block and change the parts.

The canopy mount is this length for a reason. Some people want the back flaps of the canopy to "not touch" in the back so they should use more spacers. But for me when it is like this I notices sometimes the flaps then "hit" each other with vibration causing a chatter noise. I hate this so I use only 0 or 1 washers on all my builds so that the canopy flaps do overlap. Then since they are already touching with force no chatter occurs.
In addition all canopies are handmade so they have a certain level of tolerance to them so Mikado always leaves room for the customer to adjust.
For aesthetics... a heli is supposed to look good with the canopy on. When the canopy is on, then you do not see any of these things?? So I don't see the issue! If I take the body panels off of my car, then I think also it wont look so nice! But if you want to modify, then I am sure you can find some other spacers or washers which suit your preference more.

For your question about the canopy mounting position, do you really think we will take a heli to production without having a reason for everything? The top whole is about 9mm higher I believe. If you raise the canopy mount up, then the canopy will not sit properly on the model and it will angle down in a real very ugly way. Also, if you raise the canopy grommet whole up, it will sit too much in the "crease" of the canopy. So that is why everything is, as it is.

Best regards,

Kyle