Hall Sensor Status (Tilt)

Is there some reason why the max positive collective tilt value is 75.9 and the min is 67.7? It seams as if the stick doesn’t have as much negative swing as positive? See attached pictures.




Also what are temp, skew, and flux values actually mean?

Thanks,
Dan

Hi Dan,

the photos didn't make it?

This display is a bit of a show-off

In my layman's terms and understanding:

Temp is obviously the temperature.

Tilt is the raw deflection, with the calibrated offset to be beared in mind when the stick is at center.
So, on a transmitter I have here, I see –70.5 ... +3.5 ... +78.6 equals (calibrated) 70.5+3.5=74 ... 78.6-3.5=75.1 which is right in the ballbpark.

With 67.7 ... 75.9 your center offset (without having seen the images) would probably (ideally) be around 4.1?
Which would 'bingo' at 71.8 ... 71.8, or if center was slightly off like above, something slightly off, but nothing to write home about
Those raw travels are taken for the +/– 100 % in transmitter Settings/Stick Calibration, and from there processed with +/– 1.600 steps resolution.

Skew is some sort of ... skew which I guess naturally happens when the hall sensor elements are deflected, and which must be taken into calculation to linearize.

Flux is obviously the magic flux capacitor gauge ^^ or it simply gives a readout for the magnetic flux 'happening' (read up on it if you're interested in electromagnetism), which also has to be taken into account.

But or because this is not all which is in it, the sensors interact between themselves, and they are affected by the earth's magnetic field, and-and-and ... and everything has to be (and is) taken into account, to provide the best results.

Or simply put: witchcraft

Kind regards

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Eddi,

I attached the images this time as opposed to using links.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Are you suggesting that I could recalibrate center and have the top and bottom offsets be closer?

Thanks,
Dan

Hi Dan,

no, and no need to.

They come factory calibrated, and it would require a special software to do that.

The values are of little interest, actually (did I say show-off already? ): even though the mechanical assembly process is most accurate, there is always a slight offset from the desired position to the actual position of the sensors/magnets, because internally they are read way more precise than the .0some degrees of offset you might still have, mechanically.
That calibration takes care of that, by means of learning the measured values at full stick deflection and center (and also additional useful values as we know now), and storing them on the individual gimbal.
There's plenty of surplus travel by design, so there's no risk of running into absolute limits.
And there's no benefit of equal values, either.

Not-so show-off: if there ever were issues suspected, with the gimbals, the readouts could help giving insight on where to look, so as a diagnostic tool (if need be), it's good to have them. The remaining time, it just looks important fancy ^^ like all the blinking LEDs and gauges on a big control board, where you normally only need the ON-OFF switch

Last not least, the stick calibration you know from Transmitter Settings would almost be redundant now, if there were only digital gimbals, pre-calibrated like ours.
But if you swap between analog (where there's only that calibration) and digital (which are calibrated, equalized already), it's still necessary and still there, and also to be able to get rid of ever so slight remaining differences between individual sets of gimbals and transmitters.

Double precision

—Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.