700 (2026)

Hi,

Not sure if you are able to answer this yet:

I have a Logo 600SE (690) which is quite old now (2012/13 i think) and am waiting for the new 700 to appear.
Just wondering how much of the electronics I can use from my old Heli?
When the 600 SE was new, I'm sure I bought it with the Motor and ESC (Kontronic).

Motor
ESC
Servos
Batteries 2 x 6S - New

I would probably upgrade the early NEO to a EVO
Controller is VBC Touch.

It is definitely over 10 years old but still flies great so I think I have had my monies worth.
I guess its a bit like the company sweeping brush that is 25 years old and had 12 new brush heads and 5 new handles

Thanks,
Ian

Hi Ian,

what components do you have, on the 600 SE?

I guess you could carry over servos (knowing that they are vintage and probably no longer on par with current servos), most certainly the batteries and definitely the VBar NEO.
Maybe even the ESC, less likely the motor, but that depends mostly on its kv and shaft.

We've done tests with the 700 in the past even with 6s drives, and because of it's lightweight design, and if you're not into smackdown 3D but can live with nitro performance it went actually quite well. With some tweaks and sensible head speeds, you even got a decent flight time, and could still do aerobatics and 3D without really bogging the drive system.
This means, even with a nowadays, say, conservative 12s setup, you can have tons of fun.

But I guess if I was contemplating that, I'd treat myself with a decent set of current electronics, and keep the 600 SE as it is, as long as it lasts
Especially VBar EVO V8 benefits hugely from that, e.g. 12 V servos.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Hi Eddi,

Thanks. you might be right about keeping the 600SE. As for how long it would last when I don't care if it survives, Mmmm that probably would not be long

Kind regards,
Ian

Hi Eddi,

When the new Logo700 kit is available, my guess is all the add on's required will be out of stock - would be my luck
So I'm tempted to start buying Servos/EVO etc. as you have convinced me to buy all new.

My question is: will it come as a combo? with 1. Motor 2 ESC - I do not want to buy to find I would be better buying a combo kit.
If there is no motor included what would be the correct motor? or at least kV rating and shaft dimensions.

Thanks,
Ian

Hi Ian,

unfortunately no info yet, about combos.

Since there are so many options on the market now, and so many different preferences, one thought was to just offer kits (or with blades included), but leave the bundling with motors/ESCs/servos etc. to dealers/distributors, where they can include what's preferred (or available) in their part of the world, or what they stock/offer/distribute anyway.
Might also help them standing out in their respective markets again, have a better overall margin in a mixed calculation, compared to just pushing parcels and offering the highest discounts ...
Might also help with import fees, duties, trade obstacles, in certain parts of the world, it's certainly better to pay extra only once, compared to we pay extra to get stuff into Germany, bundle, then export again, and fees and taxes apply again but on an already increased value.
Current developments certainly add complexity, and cost dearly :-/

Otherwise, the motor size hasn't changed compared to the existing LOGO 700, same pinions, same main gear size, same bearing block with counter bearing, so motors wich would work on that will also work on the coming LOGO 700.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Thanks Eddi,

Kind regards,
Ian

Hi,

I know it is a taboo subject but is there a chance that the new Logo 700 will be available sometime in April?
I've now got a new Motor, ESC and servos waiting.
So you could say all the gear but no idea

Kind regards,
Ian

Hi Ian,

well it's actually not taboo, it's just that more or repeated questions don't really make for better answers, if you have nothing robust to relate yet
It's like from the back seat, are we there already? How loooong? And you go ... duh! we're there when we're there

I'd say it's possible (so the answer to 'is there a chance' is yes) but I can't give any odds ... and where there's a chance of winning, there's always also a chance of the opposite ...

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Hi,

The 2026 Logo 700 must be close by now. Any update?

Kind regards,
Ian

Hi,

looking into the second ail behind my workplace, I can see a stack of boxes being prepared, which is a good sign

Can't be more specific still, maybe a week, maybe two? Hopefully not much longer now.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Thanks Eddi,

Best regards,
Ian

Hello.
I read recently that on the new Logo700 the tail drive gears have been improved. Are they the same dimensionally to the old Logo700 gears? ie: just better materials? Or are they different in other ways that would not allow upgrading the gears in the old Logo700 to the new ones once parts are available?

Thanks!

Hi Kevin,

I'm actually not sure if they can be replaced just so, leaving everything else as it is.

The tail gear box has been revised, too, the tail rotor shaft also, bearings could be different (would have to compare manuals and parts lists), and since the higher possible loads (coming from current FBL, and being possible with the revised tail), also the torque tube drive has now axial dampening, so soften the loads and resonances from the torque tube, following physics.
I'm not really into the technical details, though, not an engineer.

Chassis is also different, while the old one can take the 30 mm tail boom already, it wouldn't be up to the load distribution without supports, at least not for long.

Wouldn't have taken us so long if we would just have chopped the main shaft, removed the boom supports, taken a boom of different material (actual carbon, not fake), and swapped a reinforce plastic gear with a metal one, and leaned back

It was like, OK, V8 with an HV or UHV setup can do way more than anticipated, let's push the limits some (much) more, oh, now you can basically damage or strip the tail drive with a flick of the sticks, OK, revise this, fly again, find another new weak spot, revise that, again, and back and forth (or forth and forth, actually).

—Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Hi again,

so ... while you can actually replace the existing gears with the new ones, that's—as I suspected—not even half the battle.
While dimensionally (from the inside) unaltered, the tail gear box has been reinforced, too, and the seating inside the chassis also.

So as spare parts, they will work (which is good for existing LOGO 700!), and on their own, they will probably even provide some more resilience (particularly, I guess, against the odd touch-n-go of the tail rotor), but if you were to push the envelope, please have an extra eye on early wear of other parts.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Hi just reading the manual, 2100rpm max headspeed and 12 Deg pitch limits is that correct please?

I Have a couple of questions about the recommended additional capacitor.

On the description page on your website it reads:
"Additionally, we strongly recommend adding an electrolyte capacitor to buffer voltage spikes and current surges, e.g. 5.800 µF / 25 V".

In the manual (page 20)it recommends 1000 µF 25 V
Which is correct?

Also, if I fit a backup device, won't this do the same job without the need for an additional one?

Thanks,
Ian



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/2026 11:11AM by ian Spencer.

Hi Ian,

in general, we recommend a 5,800 µF 25 V, kind of out of tradition after our testings and findings back in ... 2012?
These accommodate also weaker BECs.

1,000 µF has been found to be sufficient by our team pilots flying and improving and pushing to the limits the 700 for over 1.5 years now.
This is with the KST Servos and Scorpion ESCs recommended and _should_ be sufficient with similar setups, but maybe not so much if you are carrying over particularly older ESCs, or if you save money there.

A rising servo brand, in the meantime, is even including an 8,200 with their servo sets, by the way.

A backup device (emergency power supply like Power Backup) is only capable of buffering so much (if in doubt, too little), and while it will reliably kick in if the voltage drops below it's threshold, power surges and reverse voltages can still be a cause for trouble. This is where the electrolytic capacitor can play to its strengths.

A buffer battery is the next best thing, but that's not totally maintenance free, and it needs to be connected and disconnected manually, and it doesn't warn you when it's kicking in, either. While r/c voltage warnings are not useless, in case of an emergency where you have only one attempt at saving your model, or to learn from the logs if your power supply may be struggling but still be on the safe side of the edge, Power Backup is a safer and quicker solution.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Thanks Eddi,

I will not be doing major 3D.
Can the capacitor be connected onto the back end of the Mikado back up?
Or would this mess with the back up.
Just saves another wire up to the EVO.

Regards,
Ian

Hi Ian,

smooth flying or 3D, is not relevant, but the fact that the VBar challenges the servos 333 or 500 or even 1,000 times a second, depending on the refresh rate set, and that the servo with it's own power tries to execute each command to the point. This causes current surges (from the servo motor accelerating), or reverse voltages (from the servo motor braking, regenerating power), and both have to come from somewhere, or go somewhere, so you need a quick and sufficiently big and pressure-resistant 'equalizing tank', figuratively or actually literally speaking.

A single collective pitch stroke even on the ground, with the 'right' servos, can cause a 16+ A current surge (one servo, mind!), or a 30 V reverse voltage (same!). And that is what we already measured back in 2012 ... today can be even worse ... or better, depending on the design and internal programming of the servos.

Long story short, use such a cap and yes, you can connect it to the pass-through servo connector, on power backup.
Those caps don't mess with it, either way.

—Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2026 03:29PM by Eddi E. aus G..

Hi Eddi,

Thank you for explaining, and what a great reply. I do understand as we have similar problems on the power supplies we provide. Just many more amps.

Kind regards,
Ian

Thank you very much for the info Eddi. Much appreciated.

Kevin

Hi,

I'm just trying to get the mesh correct on the gear at the front of the torque tube.
I've shimmed as per the manual at the moment 0.5+0.2 behind the large gear and 0.2 top and bottom of the vertical shaft. There does not appear to be much backlash, I was going to leave it as is but when spinning the tail something is catching (only sometimes) at the front end. Not sure but maybe the torque tube gear is moving forwards and catching the vertical shaft? does that sound right. In which case, shim to lift the vertical shaft?

Thanks,
Ian

Hi Ian,

hard to tell, from remote.

Technically, gears always want to part ways under load, they don't move towards each other.

I guess if there was next to no backlash (but no palpable binding between gears), I'd lube it and go fly.
Everything mechanical needs to wear in a bit anyway.

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Hi Eddi,

I came to the same conclusion , so continued with the build last night.

Thanks for your input as always.

Ian

Hi,

Sorry to be a pain, I have another build question on the new 700.
I have fitted the KST 12v servos.
Whilst setting the tail, I have the servo arm vertical and at the other end, the ball link arm at 90 degrees.
Using an EVO, when adjusted using the VBar Control to give full tail movement both ways, the readings I get are left 114 and right 51. My Logo 550SX is much more evenly balanced.
Is this ok or do I need to relocate the servo arm to correct?

Thanks,
Ian

Hi Ian,

in such a case (no matter if EVO or NEO, no matter which heli or servo—as long as the center pulse is set correctly ^^) I'd check a few things.

. is all the travel necessary, both ways, or is it maybe too much (angle of attack) at the blades already, one direction?
. because I've seen it already ... is the tail rotor hub really mounted correctly in the right position? Not much room for error, on the 700, but where the tail rotor hub is secured on the shaft with a grub screw only.
. do the readings get more evenly balanced if I relocate the servo arm one notch, on the hub of the servo (I'd expect 80-ish, both directions, then)?

The center position (powered, no trim) willl then probably be off, but that can be cured either by doing a trim flight, or ahead, by entering values in the trim flight menu, for tail (is where you can actually manually 'trim' the tail servo, in VBar/VBar Control).
Normally, you want 2-3° of tail pitch against torque.

I'm actually not familiar with KST servos, how vertical the servo arm stands at center (probably also depending on where it's pointing ...).

Fortunately, today's tail servos and control loops are most forgiving, but having a good mechanical base setup is imo still no mistake ^^

—Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Thanks Eddi

Hi,

The new 700 is flying - very nice!
Can anyone recommend a swash leveller for the 700 as it has a 14mm main shaft.
I've done it with a spirit level but not sure I have it right.

Thanks,
Ian

Hi Ian,

can't because I'm not using them

To level the swash plate, I just eyeball it, from the side, and head-on.
Goal: all three links of the same length, servo arms level (w/ trim), swash plate level.
Then the two links to the blade grips of the same length, fold blades, trim zero collective (tips touch).
If necessary, adjust links (lenghten/shorten).

For 8° and min./max. collective, use a digital pitch gauge (set to zero e.g. on top of motor), or use the level tool on a smartphone (long edge on a blade grip, good enough).
Even an old school spirit level would do.

In case the blades don't track (really rare these days, but possible), adjust one link above the swash plate (try and error).

Last step, do a trim flight (achieve equilibrium of forces so you could theoretically even hover it without gyros, at center cyclic and tail sticks).

Don't over-think or over-engineer ^^

Best,

Eddi

Born to fly ...
forced to work.

Thanks Eddi,

I guess that is what I did really but the blades were quite a way out of track so I'm trying to find where I'm out.

I'll go through it again.

Regards,
Ian